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The Paradoxes of Gabrielle Chanel
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The Paradoxes of Gabrielle Chanel Speaker: Amy de la Haye Chanel has often been quoted pronouncing that a woman should dress like a caterpillar by day and a butterfly at night. Whilst Chanel’s daywear designs generally adhered to modernist principles, her eveningwear – and some daywear - reveals the couturières passion for materiality, romance, historical revival styles and decoration. And it is in this area of her work that the supreme skills of her couture house are most evident. This lecture will examine these butterflies, particularly her evening wear designs from the late 1930s that fed into the neo-romantic vogue. During this period, Chanel designed exquisite corseted, crinoline and bustle styles for evening and as fancy dress. These were the very trends she had rejected so vociferously in her youth! Chanel’s use of the camelia is well known; I will explore her less well-known use of flowers too. Speaker: Amy de la Haye Amy de la Haye is Professor of Dress History & Curatorship, and Joint Director of the Centre for Fashion Curation, at London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. She has written and lectured extensively on Chanel, including writing Chanel: Couture & Industry (V&A, 2024) and a chapter on Chanel’s less well-known use of flowers for the catalogue of Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto. She regularly contributes to SHOWstudio.com. Formerly she worked as the modern Fashion Curator at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London.
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